I’ve long been an advocate of the dermaroller to help build and keep up collagen in the skin. We spoke about it here. A major issue that I’m working on is that the mean age of the subjects in this study is about 40 years and the range stops at 65 years. I would venture to say that the people most interested in maintaining and optimizing their skin are postmenopausal women. My real interest is that age group. So given the previous post, that found that Radiofrequency Microneedling depleted subcutaneious fat, Gieven my First Do No Harm stance, plus the questiionable incentives for expensive treatments, I’l sticking to the basice dermaroller routine.
Jaiswal S, Jawade S. Microneedling in Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review of Applications, Techniques, and Outcomes. Cureus. 2024 Sep 23;16(9):e70033. doi: 10.7759/cureus.70033. PMID: 39449889; PMCID: PMC11499218.
Here are the key takeaways from the review article on microneedling, focusing on what actually works, which protocols are most effective, and what technical parameters matter:
1. Mechanism and Clinical Effectiveness
- Microneedling works by creating controlled micro-injuries that stimulate the body’s wound-healing cascade, leading to new collagen and elastin production.
- It is clinically effective for:
- Acne scars – significant reduction in scar depth and improved texture.
- Wrinkles and fine lines – smoother skin, improved firmness.
- Hyperpigmentation and melasma – when combined with topical agents like vitamin C or hydroquinone.
- Hair loss (androgenetic alopecia) – improves density and regrowth, especially when combined with PRP or minoxidil.
- Stretch marks and surgical scars – visible reduction and better skin remodeling.
- Results are often comparable or superior to chemical peels and fractional lasers, especially for darker skin types due to a lower risk of pigmentation problems.
2. Best Devices and Techniques
- Automated microneedling pens (motorized, adjustable depth) produce more uniform results and are superior to manual rollers.
- Radiofrequency microneedling (RF-MN) adds controlled heat deep in the dermis—best for skin tightening and deep scars.
- Combination therapy (microneedling + PRP or growth-factor serums) consistently yields the best clinical outcomes—faster healing, stronger collagen response, and better skin tone.
3. Optimal Treatment Parameters
- Needle length:
- 0.25–0.5 mm → Topical absorption, light rejuvenation.
- 1.0–1.5 mm → Wrinkles, pigmentation, general rejuvenation.
- 1.5–2.5 mm → Acne scars, stretch marks, and deeper remodeling.
- Session frequency: every 4–6 weeks, typically 3–6 sessions for best results.
- Maintenance: repeat every 6–12 months for ongoing collagen remodeling.
- Needle size (gauge): 30–33 g needles are common, balancing penetration with patient comfort.
- Technique: cross-hatch (horizontal + vertical + diagonal passes) ensures even coverage.
- Topical adjuvants: hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinoids, or PRP applied immediately post-treatment enhance results.
4. Safety and Aftercare
- Generally safe with minimal downtime.
- Common temporary effects: erythema (redness), swelling, mild hyperpigmentation.
- Infection risk is low when performed under sterile conditions.
- Avoid sun exposure and harsh skincare for 3–5 days post-procedure.
- Contraindications: active infection, pregnancy, bleeding disorders, or history of keloids.
5. Emerging and Future Innovations
- Nanoneedling: uses ultra-fine needles for superficial rejuvenation with almost no downtime.
- Microneedling + regenerative medicine (stem cells or PRP): rapidly developing field with enhanced tissue repair potential.
- Gene-therapy delivery: experimental but promising for transdermal drug and DNA/RNA delivery.
- RF and laser combinations: offer synergistic tightening and resurfacing.
Summary: What Actually Works Best
For clinically proven, high-impact results:
- Automated pen or RF microneedling performed by a trained clinician.
- Needle depth = 1.5–2.5 mm for scars, 1.0 mm for rejuvenation.
- Add PRP or growth-factor serums immediately afterward.
- Repeat 3–6 sessions spaced 4–6 weeks apart, with annual maintenance.
This combination achieves the strongest, most reproducible collagen remodeling, measurable improvements in texture, and sustained skin rejuvenation—validated across multiple clinical studies.